Terrazas de Los Andes Afincado Malbec 2005

On September 15th '08 I attended a Terrazas de Los Andes wine tasting at Carlitos Gardel Restaurant in Los Angeles. As always it was an absolutely wonderful evening, an unforgettable night (my review of the restaurant). I tasted the Afincado Malbec 2004 (around U$ 50.00 retail) but I did not go crazy for it. I had tried the Terrazas Reserva Malbec 2005 before this ocassion (U$ 9.99 at Costco) and I was absolutely blown away, and again in that eventful night, of all the Terrazas' offerings, the Reserva Malbec 2005 was far and away the best wine of the night. And then, Maximiliano Bozoghlian (Gardel's knowledgeable sommelier) said the following words, after my disappointment with the Afincado '04: "...wait for the '05. It will be out of this world..."
I guess he was right. From a Dutch blogger:

Distinguished for its full bodied power, high intensity, and ripened fruit, 100% Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina.

TASTING AND FOOD PAIRING
* Colour: deep, dark red with purple shades.
* Aroma: Expressive and complex, black cherries and dry plums, followed by caramel and smoky accents and violet.
* Palate: impressive structure and concentration, with ripe and powerful tannins. Eelegant and complex, with hints of plums, blackberries and cherries amidst ever present floral notes. Ageing will enhance the wine's complexity.
* Best with haute cuisine, tomato-based sauce, beef and game meat, aromatic and spicy Latin or fusion food.

Link in english here.

Wine in China

Something I did not know about wine in China and I found very interesting:

"... According to China Customs, roughly 55 percent of the imported bulk wine entering China the last three years (170 million liters of 305 million liters) hailed from Chile. The vast majority of these imports are blended with domestic wine and sold under local labels..."

Legacy Wine and Spirits International Ltd. is the company importing bottled wines from around the world for the purpose of wholesale and retail distribution throughout China, in particular through the Company's corporately owned stylish outlet showroom and wine tasting facilities. They are also reviewing various varietals from vineyards located in Argentina in anticipation of possibly including some of the Argentinian wines in the Andes Primera Collection.
More info here.

Malbec's Bright Future

Patrick Campbell, owner-winemaker for Laurel Glen Winery in Sonoma Valley, is upbeat about malbec's prospects:

"... The future for Malbec is bright.  Made correctly, Malbec captures what everyone likes about red wines: dark, mouth-filling without being too heavy or tiring to drink, hedonistic, complex enough to be interesting, and very reflective of terroir...”

Campbell is passionate about Malbec and travels five times a year to oversee his four vineyards in Mendoza. He brings the juice back to the States, where he bottles the wines.

What Mr. Campbell is saying, is what I have been saying all along:

''... There is no doubt in my mind that malbec is the grape of the future. It's the only red grape (with maybe Pinot Noir, but its wines are more expensive) that men and women alike can enjoy together at the same time. And doesn't matter if you are a beginner or an old wine connoisseur, with malbec wines there is always something for everyone. You could say it is a very "democratic wine". It appeals to everyone, and it is affordable. A pair of short ribs (U$ 4.50 a pound ), a tomato salad (U$ 1 a pound) and a Malbec for let's say U$15- U$20 and you have an unforgettable dinner...." Link from my previous post here. 

But going back to Mr. Campbell comments don't miss the whole story, here. In the same article an interesting new way of doing wine tastings: "Comparative Malbec Virtual Tasting". A wine tasting through the "internets"?

Laurel Glen Vineyard Mendoza wines here.

BYOB Malbec Party (Washington Post Style)

WaPo's Dave McIntyre jumps on the malbec bandwagon:

"...Malbec from Argentina is arguably the best value in wine today. While other countries produce plenty of good-value wines, Argentina's malbecs offer unusual complexity at prices that don't break the bank. Even a $10 bottle can have you searching the glass for hints of mocha, berries, lavender or spice..."

And he describes a fun way to explore malbec... A BYOB (Bring Your Own Bottle) Party!

"... Recruit some friends for an evening of wine tasting and geeky discussion about aromas and nuances. Have each friend contribute a bottle or two of wine, to help spread the cost and the fun. Concealing the labels is optional; if you do, make sure the bottles are clearly numbered...
...With each wine, look first for malbec's signature: deep purple color, aromas and flavors of blueberries and cherries, and a soft texture with tannins that seem to disappear rather than dominate the finish. Then look for the nuances that come from different vineyard sites or the winemaker's decisions before, during and after harvest..."

And his list of recommendations is pretty spot on:

-Trapiche '08 (very easy to find)
-Alamos '08   (very easy to find)
-High Note '08
-Mapema '06
-Finca El Origen Reserva '07
-Valentín Bianchi "Elsa" '08 (very easy to find)

Link to the Washington Post story here.



Link to the recommended wines here.


Photo Courtesy of James M. Thresher for The Washington Post.
 

Beware With The '07 Flechas de Los Andes Gran Malbec

This is the kind of wine that it's available pretty much everywhere in the internet and, for example, at my Costco warehouse in Marina del Rey, CA. And because I don't want you to throw your money away (at Costco is less than U$ 15.00) or end up hating the wine, let's leave a couple of things clear about this malbec (which goes hand in hand with the previous post about decanting).

"Flechas de Los Andes' 2007 Gran Malbec spent 14 months in 33% new French oak, 33% second fill French oak, and 34% in stainless steel. Opaque purple-colored, it reveals a brooding bouquet of cedar, espresso, violets, and black cherry. Medium- to full-bodied, on the palate it borders on opulence, with layers of succulent fruit, a smooth texture, spicy flavors, and a lengthy finish. It admirably combines power and elegance. It also over delivers in a very big way. "
92 Points - Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

What Parker's reviewers don't tell you if you read their notes at your local wine store, is this wine definitely needs decanting, and lots, lots of air if you are intending to uncork the bottle tonight. Look at what other people are saying:

This is one of those wines that takes a long time to become ready. This is a young wine that clearly in need of time and/or air. The nose on this dark garnet to black colored wine is screaming hot initially, after the heat dissipates, ripe plum, cherry, and cranberry fruit comes through, along with spice and pepper...

... However, once it gulps in enough air, like an oxygen starved diver, the wine turns into a balanced and mouth coating wine with cranberry, plum, and cherry flavors. The mid palate is still tannic, but not over the top, with balanced acidity, and mounds of spice. The finish is long and lingers on the palate after the wine is gone, with a cloud of dense cigar smoke, residual tannins, ripe plums, and distinct spice notes. Please, please open the bottle (...), and allow this wine to breathe for a good many hours. Otherwise, decant it and enjoy in a couple of hours. Either way, this wine can handle about anything you throw at it. This wine will not win an award for elegance or style. It is more of a leather bound brute, with an initial harsh attitude, that turns into a sweet smile... (Link)

More after the jump.

Intriguing Recipe: "Chicken Malbec"

She was bored, alone in her apartment and with just 1/2 a bottle of a week-old malbec in her fridge. She wanted to experiment and after getting inspired by the chicken marsala recipe, she came up with the very intriguing "Chicken Malbec", with welted spinach, roasted beet, toasted walnuts and goat cheese dressing. I can't wait to try it myself!

Chicken “Malbec” with Wilted Spinach, Roasted Beet, Toasted Walnuts and Goat Cheese dressing
Serves 1
1 Chicken Breast
Flour and pepper for dredging
2 TBS olive oil
4/5 Baby Bella Mushrooms, sliced
½ cup Malbec
1 cup wilted spinach (about half a bag)
1.5/2 TBS chopped walnuts, toasted… 

Link to the recipe here.
Link to the original blog here.

Photo courtesy bread-cheese-wine.blogspot.com

To Decant Or Not To Decant

Well known wine expert and writer Carolyn Evans Hammond gives a few excellent tips about decanting wines. Which wines should we decant?

"The short and probably surprising answer is, all red wines.  They’ll pretty much all improve and if they don’t, they’ll certainly not be any worse off.  And for good reason.

Decanting is quite simply pouring wine from the bottle to another vessel—be it a fancy decanter, regular glass jug, or another clean wine bottle.  And it’s done to either (a) separate the liquid from the sediment of old reds, or (b) to expose it to oxygen to release more flavour.  Sediment free and nicely-aerated mean better wine."

And what about young wines?

"The other reason to decant is to aerate wine.  It’s generally accepted among wine professionals all young reds improve with decanting—cheap or expensive...

... But aeration is a good thing with red wines and the best way to achieve it through decanting. To see for yourself, taste any of the newly released, totally underpriced bottles listed below before and after decanting.  I think you’ll be surprised..."

While we are here, Carolyn also drops a few notes about the Catena's '08 Alamos Malbec. Always a best buy. A perennial favorite.

"Alamos Malbec 2008, Mendoza, Argentina (LCBO#0467951 $13.95) Here is a brilliant version of Malbec at an incredible price. With dense notes of plum purée, black licorice, black pepper, tar, leather, and roses on the nose and palate, it is complex and smooth with firm, ripe tannins on the finish. Served with roasted meat, it’s hard to beat—especially decanted. Full-bodied with 13.5% alc."

Link to the story here.

Wine Bargain of the Year (2009 It Is!)

All I have to say is I completely agree with this. Bodega Colomé (owned by Swiss' Hess Group) located 10,000 feet up in the Andes in the North of Argentina (Salta Province) in the Cafayate Valley is producing the most distinctive and original malbecs in the world. I guarantee you, THERE IS NO other wine in the world under U$ 20.00 with the depth, the seriousness, the body and the flavors that their malbecs achieve.

"...Now for the bargain of the year: From Argentina, the 2007 Bodega Colome Amalaya is around $20. This blend is mainly Malbec, with 20 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 5 percent Syrah and 5 percent Tannat.

The Malbec gives the typical big, dark berry fruit, with plum and game notes. The Cabernet and Tannat give the wine a strong body with some soft tannins and earth notes. The Syrah augments the dark fruit of the Malbec and adds white and black pepper spice. Together, the wine is seamless, juicy and bright with a nice acidic finish to keep it lively. Perfect for spicy barbecue..."

Find it. You'll be very happy you did.  Monumental wines.

Top Wine Faults & How To Deal

You are at the restaurant, ready for a good dinner. You ordered the wine, but then something goes terribly wrong. The wine is already in your glass, but doesn't smell or taste right. What do you do? What is the etiquette? Could you send it back? Very insightful article about what do in those situations:

"...take heart, worrisome wino: there is a method to the madness of decoding wine faults (as usual, we've got you covered). Because no one should have to suffer through the unpleasantness of a mold-imbued wine.

Trichloranisole (AKA "TCA") This icky wine fault - one of the most common - is caused by chlorine-contaminated cork bark or wood, which in turn leads to what we know as "cork taint" or "corked" wines. Affected wines smell of moldy or wet cardboard (or a musty attic, if that's your interpretation), lack fruit intensity on the palate and are destined to grow more intensely foul-smelling as the problem persists. Remedy: send these bottles back, as this is a fault that most definitely won't "blow over."

Brettanomyces (AKA "Brett") Caused by the spoilage yeast Brettanomyces, "Brett" - as this fault is most often called - leads affected wines to smell like a host of unpleasant descriptors (barnyard, sweaty saddle, chicken coop and wet dog are some of the more colorful ways it's been characterized). In low concentrations a "hint of Brett" can be interpreted by some tasters as pleasant, but if it overwhelms, ask to try a different wine (additional bottles of the same wine are likely to be affected, too).

Volatile Acidity (AKA "VA")
The result of the overproduction of acetic acid and ethyl acetate in wine, this fairly common wine fault causes its vinous victims to smell of "high-toned" aromas including nail polish remover, vinegar and paint thinner. In its most intense incarnations, wines with excessive VA come across simply as vinegar both in aroma and taste - and should be sent back right away as a result.

Much more here. Don't miss it.

Photo Courtesy of http://hitchwriter.wordpress.com/

Patagonia Wine Country

The New York Times just came out with the "31 Places To Go in 2010", and Patagonia Wine Country made it all the way to number 2 on the list:

"Ten years ago, a group of adventurous winemakers set their sights on an Argentine valley called San Patricio del Chañar, an unusually fertile and eerily beautiful corner of Patagonia. They plowed, planted and waited. The outcome? A blossoming wine country with delicious pinot noirs and malbecs and smartly designed wineries..."

The wineries mentioned in the article are: Bodega Fin del Mundo, NQN (legendary winemaker Roberto de la Motta is involved there) and Valle Perdido (link to the story here).
For you to have an idea where, for example, Valle Perdido winery is located here is the map:

Ver mapa más grande
I have tried their Pinot Noirs before and I have to say I was pleasantly surprise. This is quality bargain Pinot Noir. Less sweet and more focused on the berry fruit, refreshing, not heavy, and all for less than $13.00. It is balanced and elegant, with a long persistent finish demanding you to come back for more. In the market you can find already the '08 vintage, the second one in the row available in the US.

But going back to the beginning of the post, another blogger living in Patagonia warns potential tourist of the difficulties of getting around in that part of Argentina:

"... Neuquén and General Roca, the jumping off points for this wine region, are about four hours from Bariloche, and three of those four are long and dreary driving. It’s about 10 hours from southern Mendoza, making it an extremely tedious side trip.
...The scenery is flat and dry. There is nothing in any direction but that flat nothingness I’ve so often written about.  This landscape pales in comparison to the High Andes backdrop of Mendoza and the gnarly entrance through Valle de Calchaqui to Argentina’s second wine area, Cafayate..."

Patagonia is a beautiful corner of the world. But if you are going there be sure that you do a lot of research and planning.

Germany Pulled Some Argentine Wines Off Shelves

Argentinian newspaper "Clarín" is saying that Germany decided to pull some argentine wines off the country' shelves because of the presence of the antifungal agent natamycin in some wines.
From the article (translated-original is in spanish):

Upon the detection of an antibiotic in some Argentine wines exported to Germany, the head of the National Wine Institute of Argentina, Guillermo García, said that following this incident the Institute purchased some new equipment to do a more exhaustive quality control of the wine leaving the country, and declared that, "There are no risks to the health of those who consume them." (Added by me: Natamycin is being used in the USA in the diary industry).
The substance found in Germany is natamycin. Natamycin is not toxic or harmful to health and in some countries is permitted its use, but not in others such as Germany and the rest of Europe, said Garcia.
This incident occurred in late October by new controls made by the German authorities.
"We wanted to know what was happening and sent two technicians to learn the technique that was used. The Germans were using a 300 times more sensitive equipment than we had at the present time in the INV and therefore we could not detect it," said the official.
García emphasized that they are intending to have the same type of high and rigorous standards when it comes to quality control of wine exports. 
Despite all this, García said that the exports to Germany and the rest of Europe did not suffer at all. He noted that each winery should also do its own analysis.
Two hundred and thirty seven domestic and imported wines from producers such as Spain, Chile, South Africa, Mexico and the United States were tested. All wines, except for Argentina, passed the test without problems.

From a marketing point of view this is very dangerous indeed. I am sure that this kind of news make most of the wine producers in Argentina very nervous. Not good. Not good at all.

Update on 01/15:

Wines of Argentina is out with a press release:

“Through a statement signed by Wines Of Argentina’s President, Susana Balbo, it was noted that "In Argentina, the use of natamycin is not allowed during Stage 2 of  the production of wine. However, it is allowed during phase 1 (pipe cleaning , barrels and winemaking equipment) and is an approved component in cleaning products used  in the wineries, and it was already approved by the Argentine authorities (INV). One example is the Nat-3000, a cleaning product used in  barrels to prevent unwanted aftertastes.”

Link to the story here. Some are speculating of the real true intentions of the german authorities. The european wine market is not interested in more competition. And as we already know U$ 8 malbecs can be very, very good for everyday drinking. In euros that's only $ 5-6.

Happy Birthday Mamá!

Today it would have been your birthday. I loved you with all my heart. I really miss you. Thanks for all you taught me. You are truly my inspiration.
Salud Mamá wherever you are!

Susana Franco (1936-2008)

Another Mendoza Wine Tour

I wrote before about wine tours in Mendoza (link).

And now the Washington Post has an interesting story.

I said it before, and I say it again: if you are planning to go and speak or at least understand spanish you can rent a car at the local airport and drive yourself anywhere. But if you don't, then yes, hire a driver or take a bus tour. But you will enjoy Mendoza much more if you drive your own car. I would say it is pretty safe if you dress like a local, and don't leave anything of value inside the car.
Beware though that some streets don't have signs, and other drivers might not respect traffic rules like here in America. You are not going to a place like Santa Barbara o Napa. Also, be sure that if you have a favorite winery you would like to visit, you contact the winery by email before you leave USA. They will answer your email in english and very promptly. Be sure not to miss Catena Zapata, Achaval-Ferrer and Weinert.

Mexican Food Meets Argentine Wines

What a great post to start the new year. Happy 2010 to all Malbec lovers. Salud!
A wine shop here in Los Angeles just held a wine tasting with argentinean malbecs and mexican food. An odd pairing indeed. I love mexican cuisine, specially fish tacos (a Southern California creation I think), but I have always went for a Sauvignon Blanc or Chardonnay. The last time I've been to Jaime Martin del Campo & Ramiro Arvizu's "La Casita Mexicana" I had dinner with a Catena Chardonnay 2006 and everything went according to plan. But now I think it's time for some experimentation, specially after this:

"...Really spicy salsas kill the taste of a good wine, I noticed, but tacos, burritos and quesadillas work as well as bread and cheese, as long as they are salsa-free..."

Link here.

And they were serving Catena's malbecs which are not what you call "light bodied wines".
On the same note, I really like what Mexico is doing with Nebbiolos and Tempranillos. But somehow I wasn't thinking of having them with mexican cuisine. Next time I'll try.